Materials reference

Understanding material types and terms in militaria and antique collectibles can be challenging; to every rule there seem to be exceptions, and terminology overlaps blur the picture even more. Material color can change over time and further confuse the identification process, environmental exposure and usage can alter the tone and polish off layers. Image quality and lighting also need to be taken into consideration. I will do my best to tighten the identification on these items as they are verified.

Copper and its alloys

Copper	A reddish metal used in coinage and decorative objects, and as the principal ingredient of several common alloys. Its surface can darken to brown or develop a green patina.
Brass	An alloy chiefly of copper and zinc. Its color varies from reddish gold to yellow depending on its composition. Common in badges, buttons, fittings and decorative objects.
Gilding metal	A copper-rich brass used for badges and decorative work. Despite its name, it does not necessarily have a gold coating. The term covers more than one alloy composition.
Tombac	A copper-rich brass whose terminology overlaps with gilding metal. One documented formulation, used for Canadian five-cent coins in 1942–43, contains 88% copper and 12% zinc.
Bronze	Usually a copper alloy containing tin. Some commercial alloys called “bronze” have different compositions, so the name does not always establish an exact recipe.
Cupronickel	A copper–nickel alloy widely used in coinage. Often silver-colored, it contains no silver unless separately specified.
Nickel silver	A copper–nickel–zinc alloy, also called German silver. It contains no silver in its usual composition and is frequently used beneath silver plating.

These distinctions follow the Copper Development Association’s brass terminology, its copper-alloy reference, and Royal Canadian Mint composition records.

Other metals and alloys

White metal	A broad description for pale metal alloys. It does not identify one particular composition or establish that an object contains silver.
Aluminum	A lightweight, silvery metal used in badges and other objects. Its surface may be anodized or otherwise finished.
Nickel	A silvery metal used in coinage, alloys and plating. A coin commonly called a “nickel” may have a different composition.
Iron and steel	Iron-based materials used in fittings, tools and some coin cores. Steel contains carbon and may contain other alloying elements.
Stainless steel	A family of corrosion-resistant steels containing at least 10.5% chromium. Its properties depend on the particular grade.
Pewter	A tin-rich alloy. Modern formulations commonly include antimony and copper; older pewter may contain lead.
Britannia metal	A tin–antimony–copper alloy used for household wares and as a base for silver plating. It is different from Britannia silver.
Silver	A precious metal commonly alloyed with other metals for strength. Its silver content is described by its fineness.

Useful references include the Canadian Conservation Institute’s metal guide, worldstainless and the Pewter Society’s Britannia metal description.

Silver grades

Fineness describes the proportion of silver in an alloy.

.9999	99.99%	High-purity fine silver
.999	99.9%	Fine silver
.958	95.8%	Britannia silver
.925	92.5%	Sterling silver
.900	90%	A grade used in historical coinage
.800	80%	Used in silver objects and some historical coinage
.500	50%	Used in some historical coinage, including British issues

These are composition descriptions. See the Royal Mint’s fineness guide, high-purity silver explanation, U.S. Mint coinage history and Royal Mint Museum reference.

Finishes and construction

Gilt	A gold layer over another material.
Electroplate	A metal coating deposited using an electric current. The term alone does not identify the coating metal or the material underneath.
Silver plate	A layer of silver over another material, commonly copper, nickel silver or Britannia metal.
Nickel or chrome plate	A nickel or chromium surface coating over another metal, often giving a bright silver-colored appearance.
Anodized aluminum / Staybrite	Aluminum with a deliberately formed oxide surface, familiar in badge collecting as Staybrite. Anodizing converts the surface of the aluminum; it is different from metal plating.
Bronzed or darkened finish	A surface treatment that changes the appearance. It does not necessarily identify the underlying alloy.
Bi-metal	Construction using two distinct metals or alloys, such as joined badge components or a coin’s ring and center.
Clad	Construction with bonded layers of different metals, commonly encountered in coins.

Sources include the Canadian Conservation Institute’s explanation of plating, Aluminum Anodizers Council, and U.S. Mint coin specifications.

Other badge materials

Animal horn: A natural keratin material that can be carved or molded. Horn is distinct from bone and antler. Museum of Fine Arts material reference.

Plastic and composite: Broad descriptions for synthetic or combined materials. Plastic economy badges were produced to conserve metal; the particular plastic should remain unspecified unless documented. National Army Museum example.

Cloth badges and patches

Cloth badges combine a fabric ground, a decorative design, and sometimes a separate backing. 

Cloth and thread types

Wool cloth	A broad description covering several woven fabrics used for badges and uniform insignia. The surface may be smooth, visibly woven, or softly brushed.
Melton	A dense woven cloth, traditionally wool, with a smooth, closely finished surface that can resemble felt. It remains a woven fabric.
Felt	A non-woven material made from interlocked fibres. It provides a soft, relatively firm ground and can be cut without a woven edge unravelling. Felt may contain wool, synthetic fibres, or a mixture.
Twill	A weave recognised by diagonal ribs. Badge grounds may be cotton, polyester, or a blend; “twill” describes the construction rather than the fibre.
Serge	A type of twill traditionally associated with wool and worsted uniform fabrics. Other fibre compositions also exist.
Velvet	A fabric with a short, dense pile that gives a rich surface. “Velvet” does not establish the fibre content: examples can contain silk, cotton, or manufactured fibres.

For fabric terminology, see Hainsworth’s Melton description and the Museum of Fine Arts’ entries for felt, serge, and velvet.

Embroidery threads may be cotton, wool, silk, rayon/viscose, polyester, or metallic. Rayon often provides a lustrous finish, while polyester is widely used for modern machine embroidery. A shiny thread should not automatically be described as silk. Madeira’s thread guide

Embroidery and manufacturing styles

Hand embroidery	A design worked by hand onto the ground fabric. It may combine ordinary thread, metal thread, padding, and applied details.
Machine embroidery	A design stitched mechanically onto fabric. This includes older machine production as well as modern computer-controlled embroidery.
Partial embroidery	The design leaves areas of the ground fabric visible. The fabric colour forms part of the finished appearance.
Full embroidery	Stitching covers essentially the entire face, including the background.
Woven	The design is formed during weaving, rather than embroidered onto a separate ground. Usually flatter than embroidery and well suited to fine lettering and detail.
Printed	The image is printed onto cloth. The design itself has no embroidered relief, although the badge may have a stitched border.
Appliqué	Separate pieces of fabric are attached to a ground to form letters, shapes, or layered designs.
Chenille	Raised, soft, looped embroidery producing a textured, carpet-like surface, often associated with school, sporting, and letter badges.

Manufacturer examples illustrate the differences between woven badges, chenille embroidery, and printed badges.

Bullion and metal-thread embroidery

Bullion embroidery is a familiar collecting term for badges decorated with metal threads and fine wire, often worked by hand. Several materials and techniques may appear within one badge.

• Purl or bullion wire: fine wire formed into hollow coils, often cut into short lengths and secured with thread.

• Passing thread: a narrow metallic strip wound around a textile core.

• Couching: metal thread or cord laid on the surface and held down by smaller stitches.

• Padded goldwork: embroidery worked over supporting material to raise crowns, leaves, lettering, or other details.

“Goldwork” describes the embroidery tradition and technique; it does not establish that the material is solid gold. Metal threads may be gilded, silvered, or made from other metals. Modern metallic-looking threads can also use different constructions. Heritage Crafts: metal thread making

Bullion embroidery and bullion stitch are different terms. A bullion stitch, also called a bullion knot, is made by wrapping ordinary thread around the needle; it need not contain metal. Royal School of Needlework stitch index

Stitching styles and edge finishes

Satin stitch	Closely arranged stitches spanning a shape, creating a smooth surface. Used for lettering, borders, and solid details.
Fill or tatami stitch	Rows of shorter stitches covering larger areas, often with a visible directional pattern.
Running stitch	A simple line of stitches passing in and out of the fabric. Used for outlines, details, and attachment.
Chain stitch	Linked loops resembling a chain. Can form outlines, lettering, and filled areas.
Couching	Small stitches securing another thread or cord laid across the surface. Particularly useful for metal threads.
Raised or padded embroidery	Stitching over an underlying support to produce relief; this describes the construction rather than one particular stitch.
Merrowed or overlocked edge	Thread wraps around the cut edge to form a substantial finished border.
Embroidered border	A border stitched within the badge’s outline, commonly using satin stitch.
Cut edge	Fabric trimmed to shape without an enclosing overlocked border. Modern synthetic edges may be heat-cut or laser-cut.
Turned edge	Excess fabric folded behind the badge, producing a folded perimeter.

The Royal School of Needlework illustrates satin stitch, chain stitch, and couching. Wilcom explains tatami filling, while Emblemtek documents badge border options.

Common reverse types

Uncovered reverse	Stitching and the back of the ground fabric remain visible. Sometimes described as an open or plain reverse.
Cloth-lined reverse	A separate fabric layer covers the stitching and gives a finished back. Materials can include cotton, linen, silk, or other textiles.
Stabiliser-backed	Woven or non-woven support helps hold the badge’s shape and supports the stitching. This layer may remain visible.
Fusible interlining	A support layer bonded to the badge. Its presence does not necessarily mean the badge was intended for iron-on attachment.
Heat-seal or iron-on backing	An adhesive layer intended to bond the badge to a garment when heated under suitable conditions.
Hook-and-loop backing	A detachable fastening system, often called Velcro. The badge commonly carries the hook side.
Pressure-sensitive backing	A peel-and-stick adhesive layer, distinct from heat-activated adhesive.